Phnom Penh
When in Phnom Penh, there are enough reminders of a jagged edge in its history, from museums that once housed wartime horrors to tales of the survivors—everyone here has a tale. But life here blooms under those shadows, too, partly as a response to booming tourism. Come and witness as traditional dancers reinvigorate the disappearing art and follow the trail to Russian Market to hunt for treasure and food.